If you're hiring a mover for a job that stays inside New Jersey, look the company up with the Division of Consumer Affairs before you put down a deposit. In-state household goods movers must hold a public mover license. A USDOT number, a logo on a truck, or a five-star review is not the same thing as that license.

What license should you see?

The Division of Consumer Affairs licenses public movers and warehousemen who operate in intrastate commerce, meaning between points in New Jersey. Licenses come in three types: PM, for moving only; PW, for warehousing only; and PC, a combination license for both moving and warehousing. If you need the company to store your goods as well as haul them, a moving-only license is not enough.

The Division's consumer FAQ says you may call 973-504-6442 or 973-504-6512, or use the state's license-verification tools, to confirm a license and review complaint history. Some business licenses, including public movers, are searched as a business rather than as a person, and the Division has pointed movers to an updated verification portal. Start at the official Public Movers and Warehousemen page at njconsumeraffairs.gov/pmw and follow the current "verify a license" link, rather than a third-party directory.

Match the legal name on the estimate with the name in the database. A company that advertises under a nickname may be listed under a different corporate name. If you can't find it, don't hire it and hope. Ask for the license number, then verify it yourself.

For a move that crosses a state line, federal household goods rules and an FMCSA registration apply. That's a different check, and it does not replace the New Jersey license on a job that never leaves the state.

What should you ask before you book?

The Division cannot recommend a mover, and it suggests getting written estimates from at least three licensed companies. When you request an estimate, the mover must:

• Perform an on-site or virtual survey of the goods.
• Give you a complete written estimate.
• Provide a printed copy or a digital link to the official brochure, "Important Notice to Consumers Using Public Movers and Warehousemen."

The estimate is supposed to be based on the mover's tariff, a formal schedule of rates filed with the Division. To make the estimate accurate, show the estimator everything you plan to move, and ask about packing, insurance or increased valuation, stairs, and any special services.

After you select a mover, the company must issue an Order for Service at least 24 hours before the scheduled move date, so you can read it before you sign. It becomes valid only after both you and the mover sign it. At the end of the move, you should receive a bill of lading, a complete record of the fees and services. If storage is involved, you should also get a warehouse receipt.

What if something already looks wrong?

Be careful if a mover:

• Won't give a license number you can verify, or a New Jersey place of business.
• Asks for a large cash deposit before any written estimate or survey.
• Claims a USDOT number is "all the license you need" for an in-state job.
• Wants you to sign a blank estimate or an Order for Service on the morning of the move with no 24-hour review.
• Offers a price far below every other written quote, then talks about extra fees later.

If you've already had a problem, the Division of Consumer Affairs is the state contact for in-state public movers. Keep the estimate, the Order for Service, the bill of lading, photos, and a log of calls.

Hiring a licensed mover does not guarantee a perfect day, but it does mean you're dealing with a company the state can hold to its public-mover rules.

If the move is tied to a closing, share the date, any condo elevator reservation, and a backup day with the estimator. A missed building window can cost more than a slightly higher tariff rate. Confirm whether the quote includes travel time and a second trip if the first truck fills up.

If you're moving yourself with a rented truck, these public-mover rules generally do not apply in the same way. Once you hire a company to load and haul your furniture for pay inside New Jersey, the license check matters again.

FAQ

Who licenses movers for jobs that stay in New Jersey?

The Division of Consumer Affairs, under the Public Movers and Warehousemen Licensing Act. You can call 973-504-6442 or 973-504-6512, or use the official license-verification tools from the Division's public movers page.

Is a USDOT number enough?

No. A USDOT number is a federal identifier. In-state household goods movers still need a New Jersey public mover license (PM or PC).

Should I get a written estimate?

Yes. The mover must survey the goods, on site or virtually, give you a complete estimate, and provide the official consumer brochure.

What is the Order for Service?

It is the pre-move document the mover must give you at least 24 hours before the scheduled date. It is valid only after both you and the mover sign it.

Next step

Before you hire an in-state mover, talk with a licensed local agent if the move is tied to a home sale, and look the company up through the Division of Consumer Affairs yourself. Ask for a written estimate after a survey, the official brochure, and an Order for Service at least 24 hours before moving day.

Sources: Division of Consumer Affairs, Public Movers and Warehousemen FAQ; Division of Consumer Affairs, Public Movers and Warehousemen; N.J.A.C. 13:44D, public movers and warehousemen.

A household move that crosses a New Jersey state line is an interstate move under FMCSA rules, not only New Jersey's public-mover rules. The company must have federal household goods authority. You should get a written estimate, the federal rights pamphlet, and a bill of lading before loading.

How is an interstate move different from an in-state New Jersey move?

If the job stays inside New Jersey, you check a Division of Consumer Affairs public mover license, follow the tariff and the 24-hour Order for Service rule, and use New Jersey's $1-per-pound and 90-day claim rules. If the truck is going to New York, Pennsylvania, or any other state, the move is interstate even if you hired the company in Newark or Cherry Hill.

For interstate household goods moves, you should:

• Look up the company in FMCSA's public systems, including the name, the USDOT number, and whether it has household goods authority, not just a motor-carrier registration.
• Be wary of a broker that sells you a move and then assigns an unknown carrier at the last minute. Get the actual carrier's name and USDOT number in writing.
• Use Protect Your Move resources at protectyourmove.gov or FMCSA's consumer pages, and the federal complaint process if something goes wrong.

A New Jersey license search is still useful if the same company also does in-state work, but it is not the federal authority check. Do the FMCSA check whenever a state line will be crossed.

What paperwork should you have before loading?

Federal household goods rules require a written estimate. Ask whether it is binding, non-binding, or a not-to-exceed figure, and get it after a physical survey of the goods whenever possible. A phone quote that "looks about right" is a common source of moving-day disputes.

You should also receive the federal rights-and-responsibilities pamphlet, often titled "Your Rights and Responsibilities When You Move." Read the sections on estimates, pickup and delivery dates, valuation, and claims before you sign. The bill of lading is the contract. It should name the carrier, the origin and destination, the estimated charges, the valuation option, and the agreed dates. Don't sign a blank bill of lading. If dates are windows, get those windows in writing, especially when a closing or a lease start depends on them.

On many non-binding interstate estimates, a 110% rule limits how much you can be required to pay at delivery to get your goods unloaded, with any remaining balance billed later. Ask the carrier to confirm how that rule applies to your shipment.

Interstate valuation is not identical to New Jersey's in-state $1-per-pound menu. Federal rules offer a full-value option and a released-value option, and the details should be on the bill of lading. Choose the option before loading, and list high-value items as the paperwork requires.

How should you handle delays and claims?

Delivery windows can slip during a busy summer season. Build a few days of flexibility around a closing or a lease start, or budget for a short hotel stay and a first-night box you keep with you. Photograph your goods, carry jewelry and papers yourself, and note exceptions at delivery.

File claims in writing with the interstate carrier, using the address and the time limit in the bill of lading and the federal pamphlet. Do not assume New Jersey's 90-day in-state deadline applies to a move that crossed a state line, and don't assume a federal period applies to an in-state job.

If a carrier holds your goods hostage for extra cash beyond the lawful delivery amount, document it, call the FMCSA complaint line, and, if you feel unsafe, contact local law enforcement. Ask whether your goods will be on a dedicated truck or mixed with other shipments, and get that in writing if timing matters. If a different truck and crew arrive, check the name on the truck against the bill of lading before loading begins.

Keep the estimator's name, the USDOT number, and the complaint contacts in the same folder as the estimate. If dates slip, follow the bill of lading and the pamphlet for delay claims, and keep hotel and meal receipts if you have to wait for the truck.

A New Jersey public-mover license, by itself, does not prove interstate authority. Do both checks when the paperwork is unclear, and do the federal check whenever the route leaves the state.

FAQ

Is a move from Philadelphia to Trenton an in-state New Jersey move?

No. Crossing a state line makes it an interstate household goods move under FMCSA rules, even if you hired the company in New Jersey.

How do I check an interstate mover?

Look up the company name and USDOT number in FMCSA's public tools and confirm household goods authority. Get the actual carrier's name, not only a broker's name.

Do I still need a written estimate and a bill of lading?

Yes. You should have a written estimate, the federal rights pamphlet, and a bill of lading before loading.

Does New Jersey's 90-day claim deadline apply to an interstate move?

Don't assume it does. Use the claim process and time limit in the bill of lading and the federal pamphlet for an interstate shipment.

Next step

If you're moving to or from New Jersey across a state line, talk with a licensed local agent about the timing around a home closing, and verify the carrier's FMCSA household goods authority yourself. Get a written estimate, read the federal rights pamphlet, and choose your valuation before the truck is loaded.

Sources: FMCSA, protect your move; Protect Your Move; FMCSA company snapshot search.

If a New Jersey public mover damages your goods, you generally must file a written claim within 90 days of receiving them, with the original paid bill of lading. The mover's minimum liability is $1 per pound per article, unless you bought increased valuation before the truck was loaded.

What does $1 per pound actually pay?

N.J.A.C. 13:44D-4.6 says a public mover may limit liability by contract, but not below $1.00 per pound per article. If a 50-pound dresser is destroyed, that minimum is $50, not the cost of a new dresser. A 4-pound lamp might be valued at $4.

You can contract for increased valuation on all items or on specific items. The mover generally cannot offer more increased valuation than its cargo liability insurance, unless it raises that insurance for your move. Increased valuation is not the same as a separate insurance policy. If you buy insurance through the mover, you should receive a certificate that states the insurer, the policy or certificate numbers, the valuation, the premium, and any deductible.

Ask, in writing, before you sign the Order for Service:

• Whether you are accepting the $1-per-pound minimum or buying increased valuation, and what that costs.
• Whether high-value items need to be listed separately.
• Whether a separate insurance policy is being offered, and who the insurer is.

If you have a renters or homeowners policy, call that insurer too. Some policies offer limited off-premises coverage, and some don't. A mover's liability and a homeowners claim are not automatic substitutes for each other.

If the mover fails to give you a proper Order for Service at least 24 hours ahead, or fails to give you the official consumer brochure, a liability limitation can be void, and the mover can be subject to full liability. Keep those documents.

How do you file a claim?

Notify the mover in writing that you have a claim. Within seven days of receiving that notice, the mover must send you the appropriate claim forms. All claims for loss, damage, or overcharge must then be submitted in writing within 90 days of your receipt of the goods, with the original paid bill of lading.

If the claim involves overcharging, or only a partial loss or damage, the regulation says you pay the original bill in full and submit the paid bill with the written claim. That rule surprises people who want to withhold the last payment. Read it, and talk with the Division or an attorney if a mover is demanding more than the signed documents allow.

The mover and the consumer are supposed to settle all claims within 90 days after the completed claim form is received. That period may be extended by 30 days if both sides agree in writing. The mover must keep that agreement for two years.

Your written claim should include the move date, the bill of lading number, a list of damaged or missing items, photos, and repair or replacement estimates. Send it in a way you can prove, and keep a copy. Note damage on the inventory before the crew leaves, when you can, then follow up in writing. A photo text is not a claim.

If the mover ignores you, contact the Division of Consumer Affairs at 973-504-6442 or 973-504-6512, and have the paperwork ready.

What can you do before moving day?

Photograph furniture and electronics before the crew arrives. Carry jewelry, important papers, and small high-value items yourself. Don't sign a delivery receipt that says everything arrived in good condition if you haven't walked through the rooms. Mark exceptions when you see a gouge or a missing carton. Put a reminder on your calendar about two weeks after delivery so you still have time to open boxes and file within 90 days.

For an interstate move, federal claim rules apply, and they are not identical to New Jersey's 90-day in-state process. Use the rules that match the job, and get the claim-filing address and deadline in writing on the bill of lading so you are not guessing after delivery.

FAQ

How long do I have to file an in-state New Jersey mover claim?

Within 90 days of receiving your goods, in writing, with the original paid bill of lading. First notify the mover in writing so it can send claim forms within seven days.

What is the minimum valuation?

$1.00 per pound per article, unless you contract for increased valuation. That can be far below replacement cost.

How long does the mover have to settle?

Ninety days after receiving the completed claim form, unless both sides agree in writing to a 30-day extension.

What if I don't want to pay a bill I think is too high?

For overcharge or partial-damage claims, the regulation says to pay the original bill and submit the paid bill with the claim. Ask the Division or an attorney if the amount demanded does not match the signed Order for Service.

Next step

Before your New Jersey move, talk with a licensed local agent if the move is part of a home sale, and ask the mover in writing about valuation and the 90-day claim deadline. Photograph your goods, carry irreplaceable items yourself, and file any claim in writing, with the paid bill of lading, as soon as you see a problem.

Sources: N.J.A.C. 13:44D-4.6, legal liability; N.J.A.C. 13:44D-4.16, claims procedures; Division of Consumer Affairs, Public Movers and Warehousemen FAQ.

If you move to New Jersey, you must transfer your out-of-state driver's license and vehicle title or registration within 60 days of the move, or before the current license or registration expires, whichever comes first. You'll need New Jersey auto insurance, and you can often complete both transactions in one MVC appointment.

How do you transfer a license?

Schedule an appointment at a motor vehicle license center. If you have a current, valid, non-provisional driver's license in good standing from another U.S. state, the District of Columbia, or certain U.S. territories, knowledge and road tests are generally waived. You still have to meet the 6 Points of ID requirements, and you should review the current REAL ID "what to bring" list, because the document rules are detailed and they change.

You will buy a transfer permit, be photographed, and surrender the out-of-state license. You should expect to receive a four-year New Jersey license. CDL transfers have extra requirements, including a valid medical certificate, and all CDL holders must pass an eye test. Hazmat endorsement holders must take a written test.

If your out-of-state license is already expired, don't wait for the 60-day clock to run. The "whichever occurs first" rule means an early expiration can shorten your time. If you hold only a foreign license, different testing and reciprocity rules apply. Visitors may drive for up to one year with a foreign license and an International Driving Permit, which is not the same as becoming a New Jersey resident and transferring a license.

Bring more documents than you think you need, including proofs of identity, Social Security number, and New Jersey residency on the current MVC list. Photocopies are often not accepted. If the agency turns you away, ask exactly which document was missing so the second visit works.

How do you title and register the vehicle?

Under New Jersey law, you must transfer the vehicle title and registration, with or without a lien, within 60 days, or 120 days during a public health emergency. Make a title or registration appointment and bring:

• Proof of identification, usually a valid driver's license.
• The original title.
• Insurance information, meaning a New Jersey auto policy that meets the state's current liability and PIP rules.
• A completed Universal Title Application and a Vehicle Registration Application.

Title fees listed by MVC include $60 for a standard vehicle, $85 for a financed vehicle with one lien, and $110 with two liens, plus the registration fee. Sales tax may be waived if you qualify for an exemption. If a lender or leasing company holds the title, you may need to send an Application for the Release of a Title from Lienholder, then return to complete the process when MVC notifies you.

You will receive plates, a registration card, and a temporary inspection card. New Jersey inspects vehicles on a set schedule. New vehicles generally go longer before the first inspection, and many other vehicles are inspected every two years. Use the temporary card and the MVC inspection pages to see when your vehicle is due, rather than assuming your old state's sticker still controls.

If you have more than one vehicle, including a trailer or a motorcycle, make a list before you go. Each one has its own title, insurance, and, in many cases, inspection needs.

If you also need to vote or to update a professional license, the MVC visit does not complete those tasks by itself, but a New Jersey license or ID and a current address will help. Change your address with banks, insurers, and your former state motor-vehicle agency so renewal notices don't keep going to an empty house.

Military members and some students can have different residency rules. If that's your situation, read the MVC pages that apply to you, or ask at the agency, before you surrender an out-of-state license you still need.

Keep the new insurance declarations page, the title receipt, and the temporary inspection card in the vehicle until the permanent documents arrive. If you're pulled over in the first week, you'll want those papers handy.

FAQ

How many days do I have after I move?

You must transfer your license and your vehicle title or registration within 60 days of the move, or before the current license or registration expires, whichever comes first.

Do I have to take a road test?

Usually not, if you have a current, valid, non-provisional license in good standing from another U.S. state or another listed jurisdiction. You still must meet the identity-document rules and be photographed.

Do I need New Jersey auto insurance first?

Yes. You need insurance information that satisfies New Jersey's auto insurance requirements to title and register the vehicle. Arrange a New Jersey policy before the appointment.

What if the bank has my title?

Use MVC's lienholder title-release process, then go back when the Commission has the title and tells you to return. You should still start the file within the 60-day period.

Next step

As soon as you've moved, talk with a licensed local insurance agent about a New Jersey auto policy that meets the current liability and PIP minimums, then book an MVC appointment for your license and your vehicle title and registration. Use the current document list, and don't wait until day 59.

Sources: NJ MVC, moving to New Jersey; NJ MVC, vehicle registration; NJ MVC, how to get your vehicle inspected; DOBI, 2026 Auto Insurance Buyer's Guide (PDF).

A New Jersey public mover must survey your goods, give you a written estimate based on its filed tariff, and provide the official consumer brochure. After you book, the mover must issue an Order for Service at least 24 hours before the move. Read that order before you sign it.

What has to be in the estimate?

The Division of Consumer Affairs says that when you request an estimate, the mover must perform an on-site or virtual survey, give you a complete copy of the estimate, and provide a printed version or a digital link to "Important Notice to Consumers Using Public Movers and Warehousemen." A phone quote with no survey is not what the rules describe.

The calculation is based on the mover's tariff, a formal schedule of rates and charges filed with the Division and kept at the mover's main office. Ask how the job is priced, by weight, by volume, by the hour, or by another method in the tariff, and get that method on the estimate. To make the number accurate, show the estimator every room, the garage, the attic, and the off-site storage locker if those goods are going on the truck.

Ask, in writing, about:

• Packing, unpacking, and carton charges.
• Stairs, long carries, elevators, and shuttle trucks if a large van cannot park at the door.
• Disassembly of beds or appliances.
• Insurance or increased valuation, which is different from the mover's minimum liability.
• Storage in transit, if the origin or destination will not be ready.

Don't sign a blank estimate, and don't accept a verbal "it will be about this much." If you add a piano or a basement full of boxes after the survey, expect a written change. The estimate only describes the job the estimator saw.

Get estimates from at least three licensed movers, as the Division suggests, and compare services, not only the bottom line. A much lower number can mean a missing service, or a company that plans to add fees later.

What is the Order for Service, and why is 24 hours required?

After you select a mover, the company must give you the Order for Service at least 24 hours before the scheduled move date. The order becomes valid only after both you and the mover sign it. Read it against the estimate. The services, the dates, the origin and destination, the valuation or insurance, and the payment terms should match what you were quoted, or show a change you actually agreed to.

The 24-hour rule is there so you are not handed a new set of terms on the morning the truck arrives, when your furniture is already in the hallway. If the mover wants you to sign the order at the curb, stop and check whether you received it on time. If you did not, you have a regulatory problem, and you should call the Division before the load begins if you can.

An order for service must also state the mover's liability. If the mover fails to present a proper order at least 24 hours ahead, or fails to give you the official brochure, the limitation of liability can be void, and the mover can be subject to full liability under N.J.A.C. 13:44D-4.6. That is a strong reason to keep the brochure and the dated order in your file.

At the end of the move, you should receive a bill of lading, a complete record of fees and services. If the job includes storage, you should also get a warehouse receipt listing the goods, the terms, and the storage location. Pay according to the signed documents, and keep the paid bill. You will need it if you later file a claim.

If the final bill is higher than the estimate, ask the mover to show the tariff line that supports each extra charge, and do not pay cash without a receipt. Keep the paid bill of lading. A claim for overcharge, like a damage claim, has to be in writing and is tied to that paid bill.

FAQ

Does a New Jersey mover have to come to the house?

The mover must perform an on-site or virtual survey of the goods before completing the estimate. A virtual survey has to be a real inspection of what will be moved, not a guess from a room count on the phone.

What is a tariff?

It is the mover's formal schedule of rates, filed with the Division of Consumer Affairs. The estimate is supposed to be based on that schedule.

How far ahead should I get the Order for Service?

At least 24 hours before the scheduled move date. It is valid only after both you and the mover sign it. Read it before you sign.

What happens if the mover skips the brochure or the 24-hour order?

Under the regulations, a liability limitation can be void if the mover fails to provide the official brochure or a proper Order for Service at least 24 hours before the work. Keep copies, and contact the Division if that happens.

Next step

Before you book an in-state New Jersey move, talk with a licensed local agent if the move is part of a home purchase, and get written estimates from licensed movers after a survey. Compare those estimates to the Order for Service when it arrives, at least 24 hours before moving day, and don't sign anything you have not had time to read.

Sources: Division of Consumer Affairs, Public Movers and Warehousemen FAQ; N.J.A.C. 13:44D-4.6, legal liability; N.J.A.C. Chapter 44D (PDF).

New Jersey landlords generally may not take a security deposit larger than 1½ times the monthly rent. After you move out, the landlord must return the deposit plus interest, with an itemized statement, within 30 days, by personal delivery or certified or registered mail. If you later win in court, you can recover double the amount withheld.

How large can the deposit be, and where does the money go?

The Security Deposit Law, N.J.S.A. 46:8-19 through 26, and the Department of Community Affairs' Security Deposit Bulletin, revised July 2025, cap the deposit at one and one-half times the monthly rent. Any later yearly increase in the deposit may not exceed 10% of the current deposit. Get a signed, dated receipt marked as a security deposit, and keep it.

The money is yours, held as security, and it must be deposited or invested in a New Jersey bank or, for larger landlords, in an allowed money-market fund, in an interest-bearing account. The landlord may not mingle it with personal funds or take an administrative fee from it. Interest or earnings belong to the tenant and must be paid in cash or credited to rent, either at lease renewal or anniversary, or on January 31 if the landlord has given written notice of that schedule.

Within 30 days of receiving the deposit, the landlord must give you a written notice that names the bank or investment company, the type of account, the current interest rate, and the amount deposited. That notice may appear in the lease. If the landlord fails to provide the notice or to deposit the money as required, you may, in writing, require that the deposit plus 7% a year be applied to rent due. After that, the current landlord generally cannot collect another deposit while you still live there. Follow the bulletin's steps, including any 30-day chance to correct an annual interest notice, and send your letter by certified or registered mail.

The law generally does not apply to owner-occupied buildings with no more than two rental units, unless you give the landlord 30 days' written notice that you want the Act's protection. Seasonal rentals of 125 consecutive days or less, by a person who has a permanent home elsewhere, have a narrower deposit-and-investment rule.

What happens in the 30 days after you leave?

Within 30 days after the lease ends, the landlord must return the deposit plus interest, minus allowable deductions, and must send an itemized list of interest, earnings, and deductions, by personal delivery or registered or certified mail. Allowable deductions include damage beyond ordinary wear and tear, and money due under the lease. Ordinary wear, such as gentle carpet use or faded paint, is not the same as a broken window or a large stain.

If the landlord misses the 30-day return and itemized notice, you may sue in the Special Civil Part or, if the amount is within the limit, in Small Claims. A successful tenant is entitled to double the amount of the money withheld, plus full costs, and the court may award reasonable attorney's fees.

Take photos at move-in and move-out, clean the unit, return the keys in a way you can prove, and leave a forwarding address. The 30-day notice has to reach you. If the property is sold, the new owner becomes responsible for the deposit even if the old owner failed to turn it over. A new owner must also send a deposit notice within 30 days of acquiring the property.

If you end a lease under the Safe Housing Act because of domestic violence, the bulletin describes a faster return: the landlord must tell you within three business days where to collect the money, and make it available within 15 business days. Displacement from fire, flood, or condemnation has its own short timeline as well.

If you share a unit with roommates, decide in writing who will receive the deposit notice and how a refund will be split. Landlords often issue one check. A messy roommate breakup is a poor reason to miss the 30-day window for a court filing.

Store the lease, the deposit receipt, the bank notice, and your photos together. You'll need them months later, when the details of a small stain are no longer fresh.

FAQ

How much can a New Jersey landlord take as a security deposit?

Generally no more than 1½ times the monthly rent. A later annual increase may not exceed 10% of the current deposit.

When should I get the deposit back after I move out?

Within 30 days, plus interest, with an itemized statement, delivered in person or by certified or registered mail.

What if the landlord never told me where the money was deposited?

You may be able to require, in a written notice, that the deposit plus 7% a year be applied to rent, and that no further deposit be collected while you remain. Use the official bulletin's process and send the letter in a way you can prove.

What can I recover if the landlord keeps the deposit unlawfully?

If you sue successfully, the court shall award double the amount of the money, plus costs, and may award reasonable attorney's fees.

Next step

Before you move into or out of a New Jersey rental, talk with a licensed local agent if the move is tied to a home purchase, and put the 30-day deposit deadline on your calendar. Take photos, keep the deposit receipt and the bank notice, leave a forwarding address, and use certified mail if you have to demand a return.

Sources: DCA, Security Deposit Bulletin (revised July 2025, PDF); N.J.S.A. 46:8-21.1, return of deposit; DCA, Truth in Renting (PDF).